Braga, the third largest city in Portugal, is home to a great number of cultural attractions. First in abundance are religious edifices – churches, cathedrals, monasteries. In fact, Braga has the highest concentration of religious buildings in any Portuguese city. The first cathedral of Portugal was constructed here in 1089 and was the seat of power of Pedro de Braga, the first bishop of Portugal. And though we do enjoy a good cathedral (Bom Jesus from a previous post, for example) we also wanted to investigate the beautiful palaces and homes that are within the city center, so we chose 3 destinations over the course of 3 days.
Destination #1 – Raio Palace
Built in 1754-55 according to the design of André Soares, it was originally the residence of the family of João Duarte Faria. The main entry door and balcony are cited as excellent examples of a baroque architecture style that is distinctive to Braga.
The central 3-story dual staircase.
As we head up we get a close look at the decoration on the upper portion of the walls which, to our surprise and delight, are not papered but painted. We were a bit taken with the top design on the tile going up the staircase.
To the top I go, as I admire the blue and white azulejo tiles that are a Portuguese classic. These glazed blue ceramic tiles from the 14th century decorate Portuguese cities.
A closer look at one of the panels on a mural wall. Found widely in churches, public buildings, and in the homes of wealthy families, these murals were used to tell stories.
Being handprinted, the joining of the tiles could be a challenge. These two angels were on either side of one of the murals. Oops.
Before leaving we took a quick look around the bottom floor which had a small gallery featuring a collection of works from local artists. This glass panel was a favorite.
Sometimes the functional commentary is as good as the exhibits.
That day’s lunch was at Rāo-Chā-Kao a fabulous spot Bob found for us. Reading the menu I had this thought: Ordering from a Thai menu in Braga is a parallel experience to ordering from a Thai menu in Reno. I still am not quite sure what I am getting until I see it arrive.
Destination #2 – Biscainhos Palace
We started out with lunch at Meze: Portuguese Toast (front; there is a delicious locally-made sausage patty hiding under those eggs), Marinated Chicken Hot Bowl, and green wine. We were really happy to find this place as it meant we could eat in the late afternoon. Traditionally, restaurants in Braga are open from noon – 3p and then reopen around 7:30-8p.
Photo taken from the first floor of the museum. Typical Braga: a mashup of two churches, a traffic triangle, modern sculpture, shops, and a busy bus stop. A couple of blocks away was our lunch spot, and the building I am standing in is a 17th C Baroque palace. The front of the palace was undergoing some renovations so not a great photo opportunity.
There were, however, lots of lovely views in the walled gardens.
Time to go indoors. The palace was in private hands for over 300 years and gives a glimpse of the lifestyle of Portuguese nobility.
The interiors are known for their plasterwork featuring hand-painted motifs.
The tiles, the painted border on the upper wall, the tea service!
To celebrate all that deliciousness (and to honor our grandson, Harper, who was celebrating his 5th birthday that day) we stopped by the gelato stand on our walk back to the flat. Kinder Bueno scoop for Bob and a mint chip cone for me.
Destination #3 – Nogueira da Silva Museum
This museum was founded by a donation given to the University of Minho in 1975 by António Augusto Nogueira da Silva, who made his fortune in commerce and finance. The original buildings that were incorporated into the current museum were built in the 50s and 60s and the architect, Rodrigues Lima, was given the direction to create a space that would serve as a cultural destination. The museum houses various collections including furniture, sculpture, paintings, tapestry, jewelry, and porcelain. There is also a gallery that exhibits works of University of Minho students and instructors, a small performance space, and an outdoor garden and fountains.
One of the first things to catch my eye was this luminous saucière. In the form follows function department it is not very successful as that bowl wouldn’t hold much sauce. But the shape is swoon-worthy. [Pardon me the aside, but if you really want to see some gorgeous silver I invite you to visit Reno and I will take you to see the Mackay silver collection in the Keck Museum at UNR.]
This piece, on the other hand, is a perfect example of function. You don’t even need a spoon. (Am I developing a thing for gravy boats?)
This one’s for my NoVa book group gang and comes with a reading recommendation: The Hare with Amber Eyes by Edmund de Waal.
A closer look at the intricacy of the carving and those laughing faces. They make me smile in return.
The lower level patio and tiled wall.
The upper gardens and fountain.
And one charming sculpture.
From two different sides.
No meal today…just coffee near the Praça and musical selections by an itinerant musician. Again, this is very typical for Braga. It is the rare day we don’t see entertainment somewhere in this pedestrian-only historic center. Destinations, food, and enjoyment less than 10 minutes from our front door!
So many beautiful things to see!
I’m loving your tour!
The lack of parking in Madrid would have freaked me out.. I’m glad it finally worked out.
Miss you🤗
And I love hearing from you. Just think – in just over a week we will be together when I come in for a hair-cutting therapy session! We will be chatting up a storm.
Love you, my dear friend.
Wow! What a wonderful place – you are surrounded by beauty and excellent food – and all so close to home! As April approaches, does it feel like it’s going too fast? Love to you and Bob. ❤️
We know how fortunate we are – especially so since we have avoided the winter weather that others have had to deal with. Time has definitely flown. You know that sensation when you begin an adventure and you think you have this huge space in front of you to fill and time seems endless and then a bit later in the journey you pause and realize that you are now looking at the end of that experience and already looking toward a new one? I find myself asking how that happens.
Not sure how they will look before we head back to the states in April… but there are lots of gardens in lots of places. I will share, of course. Hope all is well with you and Jim~
Sending love.
Coni, I Love the beautiful tile work, the grounds of the castles, the statue of the girl and her dog and the beautiful weather!! The food looks delicious! Continue on in good health and enjoy!!
12 Comments
theresa mcateer
“Finding clean is a pleasure; leaving clean is a duty.” Words to live by 🙂
Beautiful work, Constance.
Constance
Thanks, Theresa. I sort of you thought you would like that.
Patty Bell
So many beautiful things to see!
I’m loving your tour!
The lack of parking in Madrid would have freaked me out.. I’m glad it finally worked out.
Miss you🤗
Constance
And I love hearing from you. Just think – in just over a week we will be together when I come in for a hair-cutting therapy session! We will be chatting up a storm.
Love you, my dear friend.
Bruce
Thanks so much for sharing. Much for my aging brain to consider but a needed stimulant.
Constance
Aging brain…my foot! Actually, traveling itself is good for the brain. I am waiting for you and Maggie to join us.
cherylsfreeman
Wow! What a wonderful place – you are surrounded by beauty and excellent food – and all so close to home! As April approaches, does it feel like it’s going too fast? Love to you and Bob. ❤️
Constance
We know how fortunate we are – especially so since we have avoided the winter weather that others have had to deal with. Time has definitely flown. You know that sensation when you begin an adventure and you think you have this huge space in front of you to fill and time seems endless and then a bit later in the journey you pause and realize that you are now looking at the end of that experience and already looking toward a new one? I find myself asking how that happens.
Judy Hendrix
Will look forward to seeing those same gardens in full bloom later. What beautiful tiles! Thanks.
Constance
Not sure how they will look before we head back to the states in April… but there are lots of gardens in lots of places. I will share, of course. Hope all is well with you and Jim~
Sending love.
Julie Nelson
Coni, I Love the beautiful tile work, the grounds of the castles, the statue of the girl and her dog and the beautiful weather!! The food looks delicious! Continue on in good health and enjoy!!
Constance
Thanks, Julie. You are such a faithful reader. As I take photos I sometimes wonder how you will respond to them. Take good care~